And the review …

Accompanying the article on Oakland wineries, was a review by Charles E. Olken of some select wines including our Chardonnay.

2005 A Donkey And A Goat, Chardonnay, Brosseau Vineyard, Chalone ($40): Tracey Brandt told me recently that she did not expect me to like her new Chardonnay because it was high in acidity. Au contraire, madame, it is a very fine wine and I am quite fond of it.

While it is true that the wine is firm in structure with minerally, stony and green apple notes, it also has depth and refreshingly bright and brisk balance as part of it rewarding makeup.