Donkey & Goat’s 2011 “Stone Crusher” is the rare Roussanne let off the leash. The wine attacks with a rush of acidity but pulls back with a chewy, nectariney finish. How do winemakers Tracey and Jared Brandt do it? First, they pick ten days earlier than their neighbors. Then they let the crushed grapes ferment in neutral oak, on their skins, for more than two weeks (most whites receive zero skin time). The skin soak makes the magic, revealing Roussanne’s electrifying side. Food pairing: L&E Oyster Bar’s oysters casino.Available at: Buzz Wine Beer Shop, 460 S. Spring St., downtown; $32.