Nice mention in the Wall Street Journal. So far, Stu Smith of Smith-Madrone Winery has not responded to my offer to taste.
That sounded all well and good. But would a vintner agree? I called Jared Brandt, a well-regarded natural winemaker and proprietor of Donkey & Goat Winery in Berkeley, Calif., and asked for his definition. “Natural wine is open to interpretation,” said Mr. Brandt. “People have their own concepts of what it means.” (Mr. Brandt, and his wife, Tracey, offer their full thoughts on the subject on the “Manifesto” page of their website,donkeyandgoat.com.)
Mr. Brandt said that he thinks the one thing that “people can seem to agree on” is that natural wines cannot be made with commercial yeast. Winemakers use different types of yeasts—some are “wild,” i.e., occurring naturally, while others are cultured for the specific qualities they impart.
Lettie Teague, Wall Street Journal
The Facts Behind the Rise of Natural Wine
July 5, 2013